Review: Nada’s still going strong
Why did you go to Nada?
Nada’s been open for eight years, during which it’s become one of the most popular restaurants in Cincinnati. People love its easy Mexican menu, the two bustling floors and cool outdoor dining area. I wanted to see how it’s holding up. Plus they’ve made some decor and menu changes recently.
And what did you find? Oh, yes, it’s going strong. It looks better, and the food is still the easy-spirited, high-flavor, Mexican-inspired feast.
Is it just like Mexico? Not sure, but I don’t think so. The flavors draw from a wide and authentic range, but the feel is like a fantasy Mexico or art and pop culture. And it certainly isn’t anything like an American fajita and chimichanga restaurant.
What did you see? Nada has never conformed to the visual cliches of a Mexican restaurant. But Mexico is suggested in the new vibrant blue chairs, the large table with yellow rose chintz that Frida Kahlo might have sat down in for dinner, more vibrant orange upholstery, the tile floor upstairs.
What was sublime? I sat at the downstairs bar with a red sangria one evening and ordered the new pastor tacos. They arrived, rather quickly: three open tacos arranged on a long plate, not overly garnished, but arranged with care. I folded the first one, and something about the tiny detail of the slightly crunchy edge of the tortilla made me think: This is why I like eating in restaurants. Further bites of the rich, spicy pork with crunchy cabbage and pickled onions didn’t change my mind.
What was good? The new chicken tinga quesadilla, pumped up a little with chorizo, is excellent – to share as an app or have for lunch. I love the way the fresh guacamole is served in a pretty Mexican bowl with slices of jicama, a bowl of chips and a bowl of salsa. Bright orange and bright green hot sauces in jars make every table Instagram-ready.
The queso dip with the smooth meltiness of American cheese, but with nuggets of spicy, flavorful black beans at the bottom. The mouth-and stomach-filling barbacoa tacos. The new beet salad with goat cheese empanadas, the brother of the beet and goat cheese salad at Boca (a block away and owned by the same restaurant group). I might like this one better, with its rich, crisp fried empanada atop the lettuce and beets, with further goat cheese spread on the plate underneath.
What brought you down to earth? I find the Yucatecan chicken a disappointment compared to the rest of the menu: maybe it just needs more roasted vegetables.
How did you feel? Nada always feels just a little more fun than the life you stepped in from. I like being shown a table upstairs, so I can walk the long curve of the open hanging staircase. There’s something right about Nada for all kinds of occasions from every day to special.
Do they take good care of you? Service is the element that’s hardest to keep up over eight years. Everyone wants the coolest, best-looking, most professional servers. I’ve never had a bad server at Nada, though I’ve had one server recently who didn’t have the naturalness that makes you feel completely confident.
Did you drink? Sure, I drank. I had sangria, I had blueberry lemonade, I had a blood orange margarita. The drinks are absolutely mandatory.
Were you reminded of anything? The new pork chop, a good thick one, served on top of rich mashed potatoes, is an amplified echo of El Coyote’s. (I don’t know if it was intentional, but I do believe owner David Falk worked there as a teenager). Ditto the Mexican mac and cheese, though this version is way better; creamy and spicy.
Will they like the new Nada locations in Columbus and Indianapolis? I don’t see why not. This is a restaurant with the widest possible appeal.
Nada: ★★★★
Where: 600 Walnut St., Downtown
When: 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday (with brunch menu), 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-midnight Friday, 10:30-midnight Saturday
Prices: Appetizers, soups and salads $5-$14; tacos and main courses, $15-$24; dessert $4-8
Vegetarian choices: Few choices but good ones: vegetarian tacos, guacamole, goat cheese and beet salad, queso
Reservations: Taken by phone or Open Table, but not always necessary
Miscellaneous: Accessible to disabled (elevator to second floor), outdoor dining
Phone: 513-721-6232
Website:www.eatdrinknada.com
Editor's note: Polly previously cited that she did not like the flour tortilla chips specifically because they were made from flour and not corn. Turns out, they are made from corn. We took that line out from the earlier version published Wednesday, Sept. 2. Also, a beet salad topped with an enchilada wouldn't work. She actually meant empanada. That change has also been made to the story.