ENTERTAINMENT

A look inside Jean-Robert's long-awaited Le Bar a Boeuf

Polly Campbell
pcampbell@enquirer.com

Finally! The opening of any new restaurant from Jean-Robert de Cavel is an event to look forward to, and we've been waiting awhile for his new Le Bar a Boeuf. It was supposed to open in November, but bureaucratic delays pushed it to March. It will open in the Edgecliff in Walnut Hills on Tuesday, the day of the week de Cavel always opens restaurants.

Jean-Robert de Cavel at his new restaurant, Le Bar a Boeuf.

It is a French bistro, but in a modern way. There are some dishes that are so French and traditional they're chic again, like snail en papillote or French onion soup, trout amandine, calves liver with onion compote and steak with marchand di vin sauce. Appetizers include a beef tongue French dip mini-sandwich, artichokes with poached egg and hollandaise sauce and a fish veloute soup.

The main courses center on ground meat, served bunless. Choices include beef, wagyu beef, bison, lamb and fish. Toppings include s include compound butters, classic sauces, six kinds of cheese and garnishes such as onion compote, roasted portobello or seared foie gras. There are two kinds of mac and cheese and several salads.

A short wine list includes some unusual bottle and glass pours from France, Germany, Italy and the U.S. It was put together by Evan Abrams, wine director at Jean-Robert's Table.

Richard Brown is general manager. He worked with de Cavel at Maisonette and Pigall's, and is working with him to develop a fine-dining concept at Queen City Square . The chef is Mirko Ravlic.

The restaurant seats 70, including the bar, and a separate lounge has seating for 20-24. The patio, which has views of the river, will open in the spring.

Open: 5:30 to 9:30 p.m., Tuesday through Thursday; 5:30 to 10:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday. 2200 Victory Parkway, Walnut Hills

The restaurant will take reservations for early seating only, at 5:30, 5:45 and 6 p.m. It will open first for dinner, with lunch and brunch added shortly after. 513-751-2333